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Making a Cloisonne Enamel Necklace

This year, I decided to set aside some time to work in cloisonne enamel. I documented my journey with photographs as I balanced the technical demands of the medium with my natural inclination to experiment. I didn’t start out with a sketch or a drawing, but I did know I wanted to create a floral design. Here’s how it went:

hammered copper sheet metal shapes, ready for glass enamel
I began by hammer-texturing sheet copper and giving the shapes a gentle dome
First coat of enamel along with the wires and fine silver foil.
copper enamel work with the first colors, translucent white, blue, and lime green.
Adding colors, layer by layer. I think I fired these pieces more than a dozen times.
copper enamel work in progress with more picks and greens added
More colors, this is close to complete.
copper enamel work after grinding
After I finished added colors, I wet-sanded the glass back down to an even, smooth surface. The dull areas are higher and glossy areas haven’t been touched by the sanding belt yet.
copper enamel pieces ready to be set in sterling silver
After griding the enamel down, it got a final fire polish, where I melted the glass just enough to give it a nice gloss. The next step is to make the sterling necklace links and settings.
sterling silver setting for the enamel, ready to be soldered
I laid out sterling silver flattened wire so that each lobe of the pear shape enamel will have two prongs.
cloisonne piece, ready to be set in the sterling frame
After soldering the prongs and bending them upright, I adjusted the setting to match the enamel. Then, I placed it into the setting and bent the prongs over to hold it in place.
enamels in different stages of setting
Here, I have two enamels finished with the prongs secured and polished. The bottom center piece has the prongs bent forward, ready to cut. The top center piece is not set yet.
necklace chain links and clasp
The finished necklace showing the sterling chain links and clasp.
The finished cloisonne enamel necklace
The cloisonne adventure complete, necklace ready for sale.
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